Is designed to appeal to a broad audience, with simple editing tools that let anyone improve their photographs. But is that it?
Even though it’s a 1.0 product (replacing iPhoto and Aperture), a lot of editing power is actually hidden beneath that user-friendly surface. Click the arrow (left) to expose the Light controls (right). For example, when you edit a photo and click the Adjust button, you’re presented with sliders for improving light and color. Dragging a slider makes the image brighter or darker (Light), or more or less saturated (Color); you can also click the Auto button that appears when the mouse pointer moves over the tool. Clicking the down-facing arrow icon, however, exposes individual controls. That’s just the beginning. Jump into editing To access the editing view, normally you click the Edit button when viewing an image, but there’s a better way: simply press the Return key.
This shortcut also works in the Moments view when a photo is selected. Shortcuts also go directly to specific tools, even if you’re not yet in the editing view. Press C to open the Crop tool, F for filters, A for the Adjust tool, R for the Retouch tool, and E for the Red-eye tool. While you’re editing, press the arrow keys to switch to the previous or next photo without leaving the editing view. To compare your edits to the original version of the photo, press the M key for a quick before-and-after.
Choose which version to edit If you shoot with your camera set to Raw+JPEG format (which records both a raw image and a high-resolution JPEG version), Photos treats the two separate images as one. However, the application defaults to editing the JPEG instead of the richer raw version. To switch, open the photo in the editing view and choose Image Use RAW as Original. (The option is disabled unless you’re in the editing view.) Add more adjustments The Light, Color, and Black & White adjustments in the Adjust tool are just the most common adjustments.
Several more are available by clicking the Add menu (see image below). I find having the Histogram visible to be helpful, for example.
If you use some controls regularly, such as White Balance, choose Save As Default at the bottom of the Add menu; those adjustments will appear every time you edit a photo. Edit the photo using several adjustments that aren’t immediately visible.
My MAC's (MacBook Pro - OS X 10.7.5) iMovie (version 9.0.8) won't recognize videos made with my Sony DCR-SR68 Digital video camera. I downloaded the files to the computer using dropbox, but they appear with MPGE extension, and I can't see them on iMovie nor in Quicktime player 7. Best Free Video Editing Software for Mac Author:admin Date:2011-02-11 Nowadays there are many top video editing software programs available for download, either free or paid, but to find a best free video editing software for Mac seems a little hard.
Extend edit ranges A funny thing happened one day when I accidentally pressed the Option key while editing a photo: The tick marks on several of the adjustment controls moved. Many of the controls use a scale that ranges from –1.00 to +1.00, with the image’s original value sitting in the middle at zero. The Exposure control, for example, darkens the image significantly at –1.00, but doesn’t turn it black. When you hold Option, that range changes to between –2.00 and +2.00, letting you darken the photo even more (or go the other direction and brighten a dark photo). This feature is also useful when you’re looking for more pop or an extreme treatment for a drab photo. In the images below, I’ve taken a photo of dried leaves and pushed the contrast to its initial maximum value of 1.00.
With the Option key held, however, I can push that higher and get a more dramatic effect. Adjusting the Contrast control beyond the obvious range. Original (top), contrast set to +1.00 (middle), contrast set to +1.70 (bottom).
Multiple levels of Levels The Histogram is good for identifying the color and tonal values in a photo, but it’s there just for reference. The Levels adjustment, however, lets you manipulate those values in some sophisticated ways. Choose Levels from the Add menu to view it.
The histogram in the Levels adjustment shows RGB and Luminance values. Looking at a histogram, the left side represents dark values (with black at the far left) and the right side represents light values (with white at the far right).
The colored areas within indicate the distribution of red, green, and blue (RGB) pixels within the scene. If you want to isolate and edit any of those channels, click the options menu that appears when you move your mouse cursor over the controls.
You can also choose Luminance to view only the brightness values. The teardrop-shaped handles at the bottom of the Levels histogram control (from left to right) the black point, midtones, and the white point.
To brighten an image, for example, drag the white point to the left—the values to the right of the white point get pushed to their full luminance, increasing the overall brightness of the photo (see below). Drag the white point to make the photo brighter. Similarly, dragging the black point makes the image darker, and dragging the midtones lightens or darkens the values that fall between the light and dark extremes; the smaller handles that flank the midtones control affect shadows (left) and highlights (right). Sometimes, for instance, it may be better to adjust the midtones to brighten an image to avoid clipping, which is when pixels are pushed all the way to pure white or black.
There’s more to the Levels adjustment, however. The handles at the top of the Levels adjustment allow you to fine-tune the edits made with the bottom handles. In the image below, I’ve reduced the white point setting (by moving it to the right) so the lightest areas aren’t blown out, and then also dragged the top-center control to brighten the midtones. The result is a brighter, more saturated sky, but also detail in light areas such as the pyramid-topped building in the center of the skyline. You can also hold Option and drag a top handle to also move its connected bottom handle in unison, maintaining the relationship between the two. Use the top controls for fine-tuning. Copy and paste adjustments After you’ve edited a photo to your liking, you probably have similar shots taken at the same time that would benefit from those adjustments.
Rather than try to replicate everything by hand, it’s much easier to copy the work you did on the first one and paste it onto another. While you’re still in the editing view, choose Image Copy Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-C). Next, switch to the unedited photo and choose Image Paste Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-V). All the changes you made to the first apply to the second. Looking ahead These advanced or hidden editing features exist in the current 1.0.1 version of Photos for OS X, and there’s more to come. An update arriving with the upcoming OS X El Capitan will support editing extensions: third-party developers can create modules that will enable you to edit your images within Photos for OS X using the developer’s tools.
This capability already exists on iOS—you can use the editing tools of Pixelmator or Camera Plus, to name just two examples, without leaving the Photos app on your iPhone or iPad. For now, though, Photos for OS X turns out to be a much more capable photo editor than it first appears, which is a good place to start moving forward.
Tuesday, February 17th, 2015 Author: I’ve been making my own Mac icons for folders, applications, and a myriad of other uses for well over 20 years now. Back then, I was stuck with 256 (or fewer) colors, a black/white alpha channel, and pretty much had to make them pixel by pixel in (uphill both ways barefoot in the snow). Later on, I wound up registering a Developer account with Apple so I could use the icon tools in Xcode (well and for AppleScript Studio, but that’s a different story), and probably tried a half-dozen different freeware or shareware utilities over the years.
Some worked well, and others not-so-well. In an intersting twist, when Apple made icons a little more complex with the addition of Retina icons in OS X 10.7, they actually made the process of creating the icons a lot easier; all you need is a little skill with your favorite graphics program that can create images with transparent backgrounds (such as TIFFs or PNGs), and you can crank out custom icons for custom folders, internal and external drives, or even applications using built-in utilities and features of Lion and later. So if you have:. OS X 10.7.5 Lion or later including macOS High Sierra.
a 1024 x 1024 image that you’d like to make into an icon – or the ability to make such an image. a graphics program that can resize your image and export PNG files (If you have your finished image already, you can do this in Preview). and the desire to customize your desktop Then you have all you need to make your own custom desktop icons. So let’s get started! Create your base image.
Use your favorite image editor (Photoshop, Illustrator, GIMP whatever you like) to create a 1024×1024 pixel document with a transparent background and draw/paint/assemble your icon. For this tutorial, I’m going to use Adobe Illustrator to create a real simple circular icon with the Rocket Yard logo inside, mostly because I had the graphic files laying around from another project, so it was quick to put together. Whatever you design is really up to you, but here are a couple of tips that may help make your custom icon look like it came with your system.
If you’re making a folder or drive icon from scratch, it helps to use the same proportions as an existing system icon. To get a reference image:. Select the item in the Finder you want to reference. Hit Command-I to open the Get Info box. Click on the icon itself so that it’s highlighted. Hit Command-C to copy the icon.
Open up Preview (it’s in your Applications folder). Hit Command-N to create a new image with the contents of your clipboard (i.e., your reference icon). Export the image as a PNG with an Alpha channel. This image will now have the same size and transparency as the original, and can now be loaded into its own layer in any graphics editing program that supports them (which should be most of them). If you’re creating an application icon, I highly recommend following when creating your icons. It’s actually an interesting read no matter what (at least if you’re interested in icons and such).
Export a series of PNG files. Once you have your icon looking the way you want it, go ahead and save the file. That’s just for safety’s sake. Now, we need to export ten PNG versions of this image, each with its own size and name. Filename Image Size (in pixels) [email protected] 1024 x 1024 icon512x512.png 512 x 512 [email protected] 512 x 512 icon256x256.png 256 x 256 [email protected] 256 x 256 icon128x128.png 128 x 128 [email protected] 64 x 64 icon32x32.png 32 x 32 [email protected] 32 x 32 icon16x16.png 16 x 16 How you go about exporting these image sizes is up to you.
The quickest way is to just take the same image and scale it down while exporting. However, for best quality, I have found it best to actually scale down a copy of the image in the graphics program itself, make adjustments as necessary (some details don’t always look right when simply scaled) and then export the adjusted image. However you do it, though, is really up to you. It should be noted that you technically don’t need to make the versions with names that end in @2x, as they are for Retina screens only. However, since more and more Macs are available with Retina displays, including these versions will ensure your icons look their best, regardless of which kind of screen they eventually get displayed on. Create an.iconset and preview your work. You should now have ten PNG files.
Go ahead and put them all in one folder, then name the folder “.iconset”, where is the name of the icon. I named mine “rocketyard.iconset”. You’ll be asked if you’re sure you want to add the extension “.iconset” to the folder; just tell it yes. You’ve just created an.iconset file.
Now is a good time to preview how your icon will look at various sizes. Simply select the iconset folder in the Finder and hit the space bar on your keyboard to invoke QuickLook. A preview of your icon will appear in a window with a slider at the bottom. Dragging the slider left or right will change the size of the preview. Check through the range of sizes to make sure everything looks good all the way through. I’ve found that some more complex designs don’t look as good at the smaller sizes. In the Rocket Yard icon example, I found that the gradient background looked fine on a Retina display, but didn’t look as nice on a non-Retina one at sizes below 32×32.
Fortunately, fixing that is simple enough. Each of the PNG files covers icon sizes from its size to the next lower; “icon512x512.png” covers icon sizes from 512×512 through 257×257, “icon256x256.png” covers sizes from 256×256 through 129×129, and so on. For retina displays, the same thing applies, except for you use the file sizes with @2x in the name. So for this example, I made the background a solid color, and replaced the 32×32 and 16×16 images in the iconset folder. Now that we’re satisfied with how the icon looks at all the different sizes, it’s time to make that desktop icon. Convert the.iconset folder to an.icns file. To get the final.icns file that we want, we’re going to use the iconutil Terminal command.
This has been built into OS X since at least 10.7.5, so you’ll need that version or later to use it. With your.iconset folder on the Desktop, we’ll need to use the following command: iconutil -c icns path/to/iconset Let’s take a closer look at what this command actually does. icontutil – this invokes the iconutil Terminal command.c icns – this indicates that you want to convert the target file to an.icns file. path/to/iconset – this is the actual file path to your.iconset file. If you want to type the whole thing in, go right ahead, but the easiest way is probably to just drag your.iconset folder into the Terminal window and it will automatically type in the correct path.
Since my iconset folder is on the Desktop and named “rocketyard.iconset” my Terminal command would be iconutil -c icns /Desktop/rocketyard.iconset Once you hit return, iconutil will make an.icns file with the same name and location as your iconset. In my case, “rocketyard.icns” was made on my desktop. This is the file we want. Use the ICNS file to customize your file icons. The most common way to swap icons in OS X has generally been the copy/paste method. As long as the item you’re copying has the icon pasted on a folder or file (like our drive icon packs do) you should have no trouble copying and pasting to an new folder or drive. However, what you see on the Desktop isn’t necessarily what you’d be copy/pasting.
![Best Best](http://www.effectmatrix.com/mac-appstore/PixelStyle_img/mac-photo-editor-software.jpg)
OS X, by default, is set to render the contents of a graphics file – including JPEGs, GIFs, PNGs, and ICNS files like we just made – on the Desktop, rather than the generic icon for that file type, which is actually assigned to it. That means that if you use the copy/paste method with one of those files, you will be transferring the generic file icon, and not the image within.
With an ICNS file like we just made, though, it’s a simple process to change a desktop icon if you’re running 10.8 or later. Simply open the Get Info box on the item which icon you’d like to change, then drag the ICNS file onto the Get Info box’s icon. Now you’ve got a custom icon on your desktop that scales nicely to all sizes, and you can copy/paste it between other items as mentioned before.
It should be noted that dragging and dropping only works with ICNS files like we just created; JPEGs, GIFs, PNGs and other files won’t work the same way. If you’ll be using these icons with 10.7.5 or earlier, you have two ways you can apply these icons to folders and drives. The first (and probably the best) way is to use this drag and drop method on a newer OS version, transfer the folder with the icon to the other computer, then use the older copy/paste method there. This will keep all the size variants together and it will scale as it should. However, if you don’t have any versions of OS X past 10.7.5, then the best you can do for folders and drives is to open the icon up in Preview, select all, then paste it into the target folder’s Get Info Box. Unfortunately, this method only copies and pastes the largest version of your icon and scales it down, which largely negates most of the work described above.
So why would you make ICNS files in 10.7.5? Well, if you make/use a lot of or applications, you can also customize their icons with an ICNS file, and these icons will scale properly and do so on all OS versions from Lion to present. Make a copy of the application (just to be safe), and then right-click on the copy and select “Show Package Contents.” In the window that opens, you will see a folder named Contents.
Inside the Contents folder will be one named Resources. Inside the Resources folder will be the ICNS file which gives the app its generic icon. The file will be named “applet.icns” for AppleScript apps, and “AutomatorApplet.icns” for Automator apps. Simply rename your new icon’s ICNS file so that it has the appropriate name, and replace the existing one. Now, once you restart the Finder (e.g., by restarting or logging out and back in), your custom applet has a custom icon that can’t be accidentally deleted.
Whether it’s to separate out a folder or drive icon so it’s more discernible from a sea of generic icons on your desktop, adding that extra level of polish to your frequently used AppleScript Applets and Automator Workflows, or just tricking out your desktop to better suit your own sense of style and taste, making your own icons can be a fun and easy way to do it. Of course, if you just want to be able to distinguish your OWC drives from the rest of your drives, we offer a full collection of icons for all OWC and NewerTech storage offerings, all ready for you to copy/paste to your heart’s content. If you’ve got a brand new, you can find them in the included software under “Other Goodies.” Don’t worry if you erased that folder from your drive, though; you can also find them Note: We will update once we confirm compatibility with the new macOS Mojave. Sadly, this doesn’t seem to work anymore. I am running El Capital (10.11.6) at work and when I rename the folder containing the PNG files to whatever.iconset, I am not given any rename warning.
Additionally, testing it by hitting the Spacebar while that.iconset folder is highlighted only shows a thumbnail of the folder, not a preview of the files inside. Lastly, running the iconutil command only gives me the error: “Iconset contains no image resources.” Things must have changed since this article was written. I double checked on multiple machines, and I am 100% certain that this does, in fact, work in El Capitan. Looking at the symptoms you listed, though, it seems there may be something off in a file/folder setup. The renaming folder issue is unusual, and is the only thing I have no direct idea on. Every time I add “.iconset” (or, for that matter any dot-something suffix), I have always gotten a dialog box. That behavior goes back a long way – even before this technique for icon-making was available.
The issue with the preview and the iconutil command, however, may be related to each other. I ran into a similar problem last month when working on an icon set; it wouldn’t show with the space-bar preview and wouldn’t convert using the iconutil command. As it turned out, my original icon (which I was scaling automatically using a script) was not placed on a square canvas, which meant the sizes were not square, and that returned similar errors when I tried to run iconutil on it. Tl;dr – make sure the PNG files in the iconset folder are named and sized EXACTLY as listed above. Hopefully, that’ll clear up any problems you are having. While that works in most scenarios, there are some instances where a properly formatted ICNS is preferable – over the years I have had intermittent problems with copy-pasted icons over network volumes and even when swapping files from machine to machine. I especially noticed it with any AppleScript and Automator Applications I made on one machine and moved to another.
By putting an ICNS in the Application resources, it allows the icon to travel with the app automatically. Another benefit to doing making an ICNS file is the resizing.
Though your copy-paste version may scale correctly, there are instances (such as I noted in the article) where simply scaling a design may not be the best choice; you may want to simplify it at smaller sizes. This becomes more pronounced if you start using the same file across multiple machines – especially if it’s a mix of Retina an non-Retina Macs. With an ICNS, you’re sure to get the best quality available, regardless of which machine you’re using it on. Finally, if you’re one of the folks who likes to tinker with their system interface (and, say, replace all your system icons) you’re definitely in ICNS-town there. To be sure, the method written here certainly isn’t the only one for producing custom icons for your Mac, but it is one that is very controllable and produces results that are usable in a wide range of situations. Recent Posts.
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